Rose & Flower Fertilizer 4-7-5
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Dry meal blend · 4-7-5
About Rose & Flower Fertilizer 4-7-5
Rose & Flower Fertilizer 4-7-5 is a dry meal blend of fish bone meal, bone meal, feather meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and Azomite for in-ground roses, flowering perennials, annual beds, bulbs, and flowering shrubs. It supplies 4% total nitrogen, 7% available phosphate (P₂O₅), and 5% soluble potash (K₂O) that soil organisms release over several weeks, so it is applied to the soil and watered in rather than dissolved or sprayed. Its most important limitation: the extra phosphorus only helps where a soil test shows phosphorus is low. Phosphorus-sufficient soil does not produce more blooms from more phosphorus.
- 2.5 lb / 100 sq ft Starting bed rate per application (about 0.4 oz per sq ft); 1 lb covers about 40 sq ft
- 2.5 oz per bush Starting amount for a standard rose; 5 oz for a large climber or flowering shrub, scratched in and watered
- 1–25 lb bags Five sizes; the calculator below finds the lowest-price in-stock bags that cover your area or plant count
Product facts & composition
| Specification | Detail |
|---|---|
| Total nitrogen (N) | 4% |
| Available phosphate (P₂O₅) | 7% |
| Soluble potash (K₂O) | 5% |
| Derived from | Fish bone meal, bone meal, feather meal, alfalfa meal, kelp meal, and Azomite (a mined volcanic mineral) |
| Physical form | Dry meal blend for soil application; not water-soluble, not for foliar spraying or hydroponic reservoirs |
| Release characteristic | Nutrients become plant-available as soil microbes decompose the meals. In Oregon State University soil incubations (EM 9235), feather meal released about 60% of its total nitrogen within 4 weeks in warm, moist soil, and fish meal behaved similarly; the fish bone meal in this blend is a bone product and was not tested. Alfalfa meal and kelp meal released almost no nitrogen in the first month. Phosphorus from bone meals is released gradually, and more slowly in alkaline soil. |
| Package sizes | 1 lb, 2 lb, 5 lb, 10 lb, 25 lb bags |
| Made by | Greenway Biotech, Inc., Madera, California |
The 4-7-5 figures are the label guarantees stated as N–P₂O₅–K₂O, the standard fertilizer-label basis. Percentages are by weight of product, so 1 lb of this blend contains 0.04 lb nitrogen, 0.07 lb available phosphate, and 0.05 lb soluble potash. Bone meal and fish bone meal also contribute calcium, and kelp meal and Azomite contribute trace minerals in small, undeclared amounts; only the three guaranteed nutrients above are analyzed and declared for this blend.
Best uses & benefits
This blend is a good choice when you want one dry, slow-release meal fertilizer for flowering beds and roses and your soil test shows nitrogen and phosphorus are needed, or you are preparing a new bed in soil that has not been fertilized before.
Established roses
University of Missouri Extension notes that roses are generally fed with an analysis higher in phosphate than nitrogen, such as 5-10-5 or 4-8-4; this 4-7-5 blend follows that pattern with a slow, meal-based nitrogen source that does not push soft, succulent growth. Scratch it into damp soil beneath the canopy after leaf-out and after each bloom flush.
Flowering perennials and annual beds
Clemson Extension recommends a complete organic fertilizer such as a 3-4-4 at 4–7 lb per 100 sq ft for perennial beds; the rates on this page apply the same nitrogen basis to 4-7-5. Work it into the bed at planting or as shoots emerge in spring, then repeat in about 6 weeks if growth is weak or foliage is pale.
Bulbs and new beds
Mix into the bed before planting or apply as new growth emerges in spring (University of Massachusetts Extension). Incorporating a phosphate source before planting places phosphorus in the root zone, where it moves very little in soil.
Flowering shrubs
Apply over the root zone out to the drip line at the bed rate. Clemson’s tree-and-shrub guidance favors slow-release nitrogen at 2–4 lb N per 1,000 sq ft per year; the starting rate here delivers about 1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft per application.
Where it is a poor fit
- Soil already high in phosphorus. Washington State University Extension found no evidence that roses need extra phosphate and notes that excess phosphate reduces mycorrhizal activity. If your soil test reads high in P, choose a nitrogen-only meal such as Feather Meal 12-0-0 or Blood Meal 13-0-0.
- Leafy greens and lawns. Crops grown for foliage need more nitrogen than this blend provides per pound; feather meal or blood meal is a better fit.
- Containers and soilless potting mixes. Organic meals depend on soil microbes to release nutrients, and University of New Hampshire Extension notes that potting mixes may take time to build that microbial population. Extension guidance for containers generally favors soluble or controlled-release fertilizers. We do not publish a container rate for this blend.
- Hydroponics and fertigation. The meals do not dissolve. See the hydroponic nutrient collection instead.
- Fast correction of a diagnosed deficiency. Release takes weeks; a water-soluble or chelated product acts faster.
Application rates & directions
All rates below are product weight per application, worked into the top 2–3 inches of damp soil and watered in. They are derived from university Extension nitrogen guidance for flower beds, roses, and shrubs applied to this blend’s 4% nitrogen guarantee. Base any program on a current soil test, and use the starting rate unless the test shows low nitrogen and phosphorus.
Weigh, do not scoop. Meal blends vary in density, so cup and spoon measures are unreliable for this product. A kitchen scale is the accurate tool: 2.5 lb is 40 oz; 0.16 lb is about 2.5 oz.
Flower beds, perennial borders, annuals, and bulbs
| Use | Rate | Nutrients delivered per 100 sq ft | Timing | Basis |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Starting rate (most beds) | 2.5 lb per 100 sq ft (0.4 oz per sq ft) | 0.10 lb N, 0.175 lb P₂O₅, 0.125 lb K₂O | At bed preparation or as growth begins in spring; repeat once in about 6 weeks if growth is weak or foliage is pale; no more than two applications a season | UMD Extension: 0.1 lb N per 100 sq ft ÷ 4% N |
| Upper rate (soil test low in N and P; heavy-feeding beds) | 5 lb per 100 sq ft (0.8 oz per sq ft) | 0.20 lb N, 0.35 lb P₂O₅, 0.25 lb K₂O | Same timing; no more than two applications a season without a new soil test | Clemson HGIC 1153: 4–7 lb of 3-4-4 per 100 sq ft, matched on N (delivers about 25% more P₂O₅ than that source, so low-P soils only) |
| Spring bulbs | 2.5 lb per 100 sq ft | As above | Incorporate at planting, then once as new growth emerges in spring | UMass Extension timing; UMD rate |
Established roses and flowering shrubs
| Plant | Amount per plant | Where to apply | Timing | Basis |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Miniature, hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora (canopy to about 3 ft) | 2.5 oz (0.16 lb) | Band from 6 to 18 inches out from the crown; keep off canes and graft union | After leaf-out, again after each bloom flush; stop 6 weeks before your first frost; up to three applications a season | Starting bed rate × about 6.3 sq ft band (Illinois Extension, 6–18 in from the crown) |
| Climbing, shrub, and large English roses; flowering shrubs (canopy about 4 ft) | 5 oz (0.31 lb) | Spread evenly under the canopy out to the drip line | Same as above; shrubs once as growth begins and once in early summer | Starting bed rate × about 12 sq ft root zone to the drip line (Clemson HGIC 1000) |
| Newly planted rose or shrub | None at planting | Improve the backfill with compost or other organic matter instead | Begin the schedule above after the plant has produced its first blooms | Clemson HGIC 1172: wait until after the first blooms to fertilize a new rose |
Season limits. University of Missouri Extension advises not fertilizing roses after July, Illinois Extension not after August 15, and Clemson Extension stopping 6 weeks before the earliest frost, so late-season nitrogen does not push soft growth that winter damages. Clemson (South Carolina) also suggests halving amounts during June, July, and August where summers are hot. Do not apply to frozen, waterlogged, or drought-stressed soil, and water the bed after every application.
How to use Rose & Flower Fertilizer 4-7-5
- Check the need. Test the soil every 2–3 years. Use this blend where nitrogen and phosphorus are low to medium; if phosphorus tests high, switch to a nitrogen-only meal. Aim for the slightly acid pH roses prefer, about 5.5–6.5.
- Weigh the amount. Measure your bed in square feet, or count plants, and weigh out 2.5 lb per 100 sq ft, 2.5 oz per standard rose bush, or 5 oz per large climber or shrub. The calculator below does the arithmetic.
- Scratch it in. Spread evenly over damp soil and work into the top 2–3 inches with a hand cultivator, in a band 6–18 inches from a rose crown or across the whole bed; when preparing a new bed, mix it through the tilled depth with your other amendments. Keep it off canes, stems, and graft unions.
- Water and mulch. Water thoroughly to move the meal into the root zone and start microbial release, then cover with 2–3 inches of mulch. Working it in and watering also makes the meal far less attractive to dogs.
- Repeat with the season. Feed roses after each bloom flush (up to three times a season) and beds once more in about 6 weeks if growth is weak, then stop 6 weeks before your first frost.
Calculator & choosing a size
Formula (starting rate): bed area in sq ft × 0.025 = pounds of product per application. Established roses: 0.16 lb per standard bush or 0.31 lb per large climber or shrub. Multiply by the number of applications you plan this season, usually two or three for repeat-blooming roses.
Worked example: a 120 sq ft rose-and-perennial border needs 120 × 0.025 = 3 lb per application. A 5 lb bag covers one application with 2 lb left toward the next; two applications need 6 lb, so a 10 lb bag (or a 5 lb plus a 1 lb bag) covers the season. The upper bed rate doubles the bed figures; per-plant amounts do not change.
| Bag | Bed area at 2.5 lb per 100 sq ft | Standard rose bushes at 2.5 oz each | Large climbers or shrubs at 5 oz each |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 lb | 40 sq ft | 6 | 3 |
| 2 lb | 80 sq ft | 12 | 6 |
| 5 lb | 200 sq ft | 32 | 16 |
| 10 lb | 400 sq ft | 64 | 32 |
| 25 lb | 1,000 sq ft | 160 | 80 |
The calculator applies these rates automatically, shows the nutrients you are adding, and recommends the lowest-price in-stock bag combination that covers the amount and, when different, the combination with the least left over. Tax and shipping are calculated at checkout.
The calculator needs JavaScript. If it does not appear, use the formula and coverage table above to choose a size.
How it works
Plants take up the same nutrient ions whether they come from a meal or a soluble salt; the difference is timing. In this blend the nitrogen is bound in protein (feather meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa) and the phosphorus in bone mineral, so soil bacteria and fungi have to decompose the material before roots can use it. That is why it is applied weeks ahead of peak demand, why release is slower in cold or dry soil, and why the salt burn risk at the rates on this page is low. How soil microbes affect plant health explains the organisms doing that work.
Phosphorus is essential for energy transfer, root growth, and flowering, and roses are traditionally fed with a phosphate-forward analysis. What phosphorus does not do is add blooms once the soil already has enough of it: Washington State University Extension reports that urban landscape soils are usually adequate or high in phosphate and that extra phosphate reduces beneficial mycorrhizal colonization; North Dakota State University Extension summarizes studies showing high phosphorus rates do not increase flower number; and Texas A&M AgriLife Extension notes that excessive soil phosphorus reduces uptake of iron and zinc even when those nutrients are present. Soil pH matters too: phosphorus availability is highest between pH 6.0 and 7.0, and above about 7.5 calcium binds it into insoluble forms (University of Arizona Extension), so in alkaline or calcareous soil the phosphorus in bone meals releases slowly. The practical rule is to feed phosphorus to a low or medium soil test, not to a plant that is simply slow to bloom. For a comparison of phosphorus sources and how quickly each releases, see what is the best phosphorus fertilizer.
The evidence above concerns the ingredients and phosphorus nutrition in general; it is not a trial of this finished blend. Bloom response depends on cultivar, light, water, pruning, and soil condition, and no fertilizer ratio guarantees it.
Compare your options
A blended meal fertilizer is one way to feed flowers; single-ingredient meals let you match what a soil test actually asks for. Analyses below are each product’s label guarantee. For a broader discussion of release speed and soil effects, read organic vs synthetic fertilizer: key differences.
| Product | Analysis | Choose it when | Limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rose & Flower Fertilizer 4-7-5 (this product) | 4-7-5 | You want one dry meal-based product for beds and roses that need N, P, and K | Adds phosphorus whether or not the soil needs it; slow in cold soil; not for containers or hydroponics |
| Organic Bone Meal 3-15-0 | 3-15-0, 24% calcium | A soil test calls for phosphorus and calcium only, especially before planting bulbs or roses | No potassium; little nitrogen; slow release |
| Fish Bone Meal 4-17-0 | 4-17-0 | Phosphorus is low and you want a marine-derived phosphorus source | No potassium; strong odor; attractive to animals |
| Feather Meal 12-0-0 | 12-0-0 | Phosphorus tests high and you need slow-release nitrogen only | No P or K; release depends on soil activity |
| Organic Blood Meal 13-0-0 | 13-0-0 | Leafy crops or a quick organic nitrogen boost | Fast nitrogen can burn if over-applied; not a bloom fertilizer |
| Kelp Meal 2-0-4 | 2-0-4 | Potassium and trace minerals without phosphorus | Very little nitrogen in the first month after application |
| Organic Alfalfa Meal 2.5-0-2.5 | 2.5-0-2.5 | A gentle soil builder and top-dress for rose beds | Low analysis; almost no nitrogen release in the first month |
Handling, storage & limitations
- Dust. Bone, feather, and fish meals produce fine dust. Wear gloves and a dust mask when weighing or spreading larger quantities, avoid breathing dust, and wash hands after use.
- Pets and wildlife. Dogs are strongly attracted to bone and fish meals, and eating a quantity of fertilizer can cause digestive upset or worse. Work the meal into the soil, water it in, keep pets off the area until the surface is dry, and store the bag where animals cannot reach it.
- Storage. Keep the bag sealed, cool, dry, and off the ground. Moisture causes clumping, odor, and mold.
- Over-application. Organic materials carry salts and can burn plants if over-applied (Utah State University Extension). Weigh the amount, keep it off stems and canes, and do not exceed the upper rate without a soil test.
- Where not to use it. Not for containers, hydroponics, foliar spraying, or lawns; not a substitute for lime or sulfur in correcting soil pH.
- First aid. Rinse eyes or skin with clean water. If swallowed, rinse the mouth and contact Poison Control at 1-800-222-1222. If dust is inhaled, move to fresh air.
Frequently asked questions
Does a high-phosphorus fertilizer make roses bloom more?
Not by itself. Phosphorus is essential for flowering, but once the soil has enough of it, adding more does not add blooms, and Washington State University Extension notes that excess phosphate reduces beneficial mycorrhizal activity. A soil test tells you whether phosphorus is actually low. Light, water, pruning, and cultivar usually matter more than the fertilizer ratio.
How much should I put on each rose bush?
Weigh out about 2.5 oz (0.16 lb) for a standard bush such as a hybrid tea or floribunda, or about 5 oz (0.31 lb) for a large climber or shrub rose, and scratch it into damp soil in a band 6 to 18 inches from the crown. That is the starting rate; only go higher when a soil test shows nitrogen and phosphorus are low.
When should I feed roses, and when should I stop?
Make the first application after the plants leaf out in spring and repeat after each flush of bloom. Stop about 6 weeks before your first expected frost, and in cold-winter regions not later than mid-July to mid-August, so new growth has time to harden before winter.
Can I use it in pots and containers?
We do not recommend it for containers. Potting mixes start with little of the soil biology that releases nutrients from meals, so release is slower and less predictable than in garden soil, and Extension guidance for containers favors soluble or controlled-release fertilizers. Use this blend for in-ground beds.
Will it burn my plants?
The risk is low at the rates on this page because the nutrients release over weeks rather than all at once. Organic materials still contain salts and can burn if over-applied or piled against stems, so weigh the amount, keep it off canes and crowns, and water it in.
Is it safe around dogs?
Applied as directed and worked into the soil, the risk is small, but bone and fish meals smell like food to dogs and a dog that digs up and eats fertilizer can become ill. Water the area after application, keep pets off until the surface is dry, and store the bag out of reach.
Is it OMRI Listed or allowed in certified organic production?
The finished blend does not carry its own OMRI listing. If you grow under organic certification, confirm the product’s status with your certifier before use; contact us for the ingredient information your certifier asks for.
Why are my rose leaves turning yellow?
Yellow leaves can come from nitrogen shortage, iron or manganese deficiency in alkaline soil, magnesium deficiency in sandy or acid soil, waterlogging, drought, or root damage, so the pattern matters: uniform yellowing of older leaves points to nitrogen, yellow between green veins on new leaves points to iron. This blend supplies nitrogen slowly; it does not correct soil pH. If yellowing persists after a feeding and normal watering, test the soil before adding anything else.
What soil pH do roses prefer?
Slightly acid soil, about pH 5.5 to 6.5 according to University of Missouri Extension. Above about 7.0, iron and manganese become less available even when present. This fertilizer does not meaningfully change pH; use lime or elemental sulfur based on a soil test.
Related guides & articles
- Organic Soil Preparation: how to build a bed with organic meals before planting, with typical per-100-sq-ft rates for each material and where a premixed blend like this one fits.
- Organic vs Synthetic Fertilizer: Key Differences: what changes in release speed, burn risk, and long-term soil health when you choose one or the other.
- What Is the Best Phosphorus Fertilizer?: bone meal, fish bone meal, and soluble phosphates compared by release speed and use, with the soil-test-first rule explained.
Product documents & sources
The current package label for this blend is available by email from questions@greenwaybiotech.com. If the printed directions on your bag differ from the weight-based rates on this page, use the rates here.
Sources used for the rates and statements on this page
- University of Maryland Extension, Care of Annuals and Perennials: about 0.1 lb nitrogen per 100 sq ft of bed, applied in spring (basis of the starting rate).
- Clemson HGIC 1153, Growing Perennials: 4–7 lb of a 3-4-4 organic fertilizer per 100 sq ft; repeat in 6 weeks (basis of the upper rate).
- Clemson HGIC 1172, Growing Roses: feed at leaf-out and after each bloom flush until 6 weeks before frost; wait until after the first blooms to fertilize a newly planted rose; scratch into damp soil; halve summer amounts.
- University of Missouri Extension G6601, Roses: Care After Planting: phosphate-forward analyses for roses, 3 lb of complete fertilizer per 100 sq ft, no feeding after July, pH 5.5–6.5.
- Illinois Extension, Roses: Care: fertilizer band 6–18 inches from the crown; applications in spring, mid-June, and mid-July; none after August 15.
- Clemson HGIC 1000, Fertilizing Trees & Shrubs: slow-release nitrogen at 2–4 lb N per 1,000 sq ft per year over the root zone to the drip line.
- UMass Extension, Fertilizing Flower Garden Plants: timing for annuals, bulbs, and roses; soil-test-first; phosphorus and water quality.
- Oregon State University EM 9235, Organic Fertilizer & Cover Crop Calculator: first-season nitrogen release from feather meal, fish meal, alfalfa meal, and kelp meal.
- Washington State University Extension, L. Chalker-Scott, The Myth of Phosphate, Part II: no evidence roses need high phosphate; excess phosphate reduces mycorrhizal activity.
- NDSU Extension, Dakota Gardener: The Myth of High Phosphorus Fertilizers for More Flowers: studies show high phosphorus rates do not increase flower number; most garden soils already contain sufficient phosphorus.
- Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, Phosphorus: Too Much and Plants May Suffer: excessive soil phosphorus reduces iron and zinc uptake.
- University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Phosphorus: Why Worry?: phosphorus availability peaks at pH 6.0–7.0; above about 7.5, calcium binds phosphorus into insoluble forms.
- Utah State University Extension, Selecting and Using Organic Fertilizers: typical analyses of organic materials, rate calculation from an N recommendation, salt burn from over-application.
- University of New Hampshire Extension, Using Fertilizers and Potting Soil to Grow Plants: why organic fertilizers release slowly in soilless mixes.
- ASPCA Animal Poison Control, Fertilizers: A Growing Problem for Pets: bone, fish, and blood meals attract dogs; keep pets off treated areas.
Rates and sources reviewed September 9, 2026.
Help choosing & next step
Not sure whether your bed needs phosphorus, or how much to buy for the season? Email questions@greenwaybiotech.com or call (562) 351-5168, Monday to Friday, 7 AM to 5 PM Pacific, with your soil test or bed size and we will work it out with you. Every order carries a 90-day satisfaction guarantee.
Ready to buy? Run the calculator to size your order, or choose a bag from the size selector at the top of this page.
Greenway Biotech, Inc. is a family-owned fertilizer manufacturer in Madera, California, blending and packaging specialty fertilizers since 1989.
